Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Zahia




History of a Parisian phenomenon: between art and lingerie haute couture

In Paris, they talk about it far too much. From the most popular and sensational tabloids, to the culture page of the newspapers, from the gauche-caviar salons to the hottest boîtes de nuit, with the everlasting Mathis, where I personally attended, a few days ago, to a wild discussion on this subject: the Zahia phenomenon rages thus everywhere.

She’s very young, distant and impenetrable like an antique goddess, Zahia, a minute and statuary body, rotund, perfect and surrealistic poitrine and back, that seems to be well-defined like a comic creature by the Japanese Takashi Murakami. She’s definitively sexy, but of a cold, camp and almost allegoric sexiness; Zahia is the talk of the city of the French capital city more than ever. Her dreamy fashion show of exclusive and imaginary lingerie at the Palais de Chaillot, since last 25th January, has switched on the spotlight on her.

Today, just in her twenties, among the general admiration, she makes her debut in full splendor with her line of lingerie couture. It seems that an arcane Chinese sponsor from Hong Kong, called "First Mark Investment", has paid the whole very expensive launch operation.A collection that is summarized exactly in its first creator and inspirer, Zahia: there are impalpable embroideries everywhere, delicate flowers which drift on tulle tops, butterflies that rest on fairy souliers, on bras and body suits as the dreamy princesses wear, naughty and cerebral rose and cyclamen clusters in a XVI century-like satin, to hide the "embarrassing parts" of millionaire odalisques, underclothes of an Oriental favourite lady, mistress of an audacious and limitless boudoir idéal, for the sake of omnipotent and capricious satraps.

The antiquarian, or else "modernaria"” Parisian cult Pierre Passebon, demiurge of the Galerie du Passage and close friend of the Saint-Laurent’s Überdecorator Jacques Grange, with a good amount of courage, in his critic and hagiographic contribute included in the luxurious fashion show’s press folder with the pink cover, manages to compare its relation with Zahia’s art with the teaching of centuries of legendary ladies such as Lady Hamilton, the Marchioness Casati, the Countess of Castiglione and even to Gertrude Stein. Is this real glory or the umpteenth consuming bluff? We’ll see…








Saturday, January 28, 2012

Breaking News: Rock Vault

27 January 2012
BREAKING NEWS: Rock Vault
The British Fashion Council (BFC) today announces the brand new jewellery initiative BFC Rock Vault to support, showcase and promote Britain’s most innovative, fine jewellery talent. Sponsored by the International Palladium Board (IPB) and curated by Stephen Webster, ‘BFC Rock Vault’ will launch during London Fashion Week, February 17th – 21st, at Somerset House.


The ten successful jewellers who have been selected to showcase their AW12 collections within the Rock Vault are Alexandra Jefford,Fernando JorgeHannah MartinHillier, Husam El Odeh, Jo Hayes Ward, Jordan AskillMelanie Georgacopoulos, Sophie Bille Braheand Tomasz Donocik. The designers will feature alongside five concepts created in Palladium by Central Saint Martins students.


Housed in a structure located on the Terrace of Somerset House, overlooking the Thames, the designers will be awarded support towards creating their own unique installation within this dedicated area and will receive business mentoring support. An event to launch this initiative will be held on Saturday, 18th February at the designated BFC Rock Vault space at Somerset House.


This unique showcasing initiative has been developed by the BFC to nurture the creative fine jewellery talent based in London and give these designers the opportunity to further develop their businesses and exposure amongst both UK and International media and retailers.


The participants are invited by a panel led by Stephen Webster comprising Anna Orsini, British Fashion Council; Brad Mills, Chairman of IPB; Caroline Broadhead, Central Saint Martins’ Programme Director; Catherine Nieto, Grazia Fashion and Accessories Editor; Francoise Tessier, Browns Fine Jewellery Buyer; Jos Skeates, EC One; Katie Bain, British Fashion Council; Lara Bohinc, Designer and Cartier Consultant; Liane Wiggins, Matches Head Buyer; Maria Lemos, Rainbowwave; Olivia Richardson, Liberty Head of Buying; Sarah Mower, MBE BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent and contributing editor for US Vogue.com; Valery Demure, marketing and sales, jewellery and accessories agent.


Stephen Webster, comments, “As a London jewellery designer and a craftsman, it gives me great pleasure to be curating Rock Vault, an area dedicated for the first time to the rising stars of the UK jewellery industry under the umbrella of the BFC. Together with a panel of experts, we have selected what we believe to be the best representation of young talent. Over the last 10 years, jewellery has become an integral part of both men and woman's wardrobe. This meteoric rise has meant jewellery designers have been crying out for inclusion within the established fashion platforms. Rock Vault finally offers such an opportunity. We are all very excited to realise this vision.”


Brad Mills, Chairman of IPB, comments, “We are proud to support London Fashion Week. This partnership opens a series of projects entitled Palladium Visions, which we will undertake in 2012 with some of the world’s most visionary designers, artists and jewellers to promote Palladium as the must-have, contemporary precious metal of the future.”


The International Palladium Board (IPB) is dedicated to establishing Palladium as the contemporary precious metal of the future. Palladium is a beautiful lustrous white metal, desired by jewellery designers and owners for its unique features – rarity, lightness and strength. In 2009 Palladium became the most recent precious metal to be hallmarked.


For more information please visit www.britishfashioncouncil.com/rockvault


Image: Jordan Askill



For press enquiries regarding BFC Rock Vault please contact 

Kimberly Carroll, PR Executive, British Fashion Council, Tel: +44 (0) 20 7759 1987
kimberly.carroll@britishfashioncouncil.com


For press enquiries regarding Palladium Visions please contact
Hugh Gallagher, Exposure Promotions, Tel: +44 (0) 20 7907 7145
hugh.gallagher@exposure.net


For designers wishing to apply for BFC Rock Vault please contact  
Katie Bain, British Fashion Council, Tel: +44 (0) 20 7759 1978
katie.bain@britishfashioncouncil.com

Sunday, January 22, 2012


22 January 2012
BREAKING NEWS: London Collections
The British Fashion Council (BFC) today announces plans for a brand new Menswear showcase LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN that will launch in June 2012. 

Running from 15th – 17th June, London will kick start the Menswear calendar with a showcase of British brands and businesses embedded in a cultural programme.  London Collections: Men is a development of the Men’s day at London Fashion Week which has grown in stature and content despite sitting outside of the traditional menswear calendar.  This new showcase will emphasise both the creative and commercial importance of Britain’s brands and emerging talent as well as the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the inspiration and success of this sector.

The majority of brands and designers who participate in the Men’s day at London Fashion Week will be contributing to the showcase.  London’s emerging talent showcases MAN, NEWGEN MENsponsored by Topman and Fashion Forward will support the UK’s most innovative new talents to show during this period.  Iconic British designers such as Margaret Howell, heritage brands such as Aquascutum and Savile Row tailors such as Richard James and E. Tautz will join London Collections: Men to show the breadth of British menswear.

Dylan Jones, chair of the Fashion 2012 Menswear Committee will be at helm of these plans, drawing together a committee of influential figures within the Menswear industry initially including Christopher Bailey; David Furnish; David Walker-Smith, Selfridges; Elizabeth Saltzman; Gordon Richardson, TOPMAN; Jo Levin, GQ; Jeremy Langmead, MR PORTER; Marigay McKee, Harrods; Simon Fuller; Tim Blanks, Style.com; Tom Ford. The Committee will ensure that London Collections: Men becomes a unique opportunity to see and buy British menswear whilst experiencing the UK’s dynamic creative industries through a cross cultural curated programme. 

Harold Tillman, CBE Chairman of British Fashion Council said “The menswear industry has been growing from strength to strength in past years and this is true testament to this, London Collections: Men will not only be a showcase for brands and designers but will form a cross cultural programme creating a festival for Menswear in what will be a truly exciting year for the UK. I would like to thank Dylan Jones as Chair of the newly formed Fashion 2012 Menswear committee and all of the members, designers and brands involved in making this work.”

Dylan Jones, Editor GQ and Chair of Fashion 2012 Menswear Committee said "This is a fabulous initiative, and one that will undoubtedly draw even more attention towards London this year. Whether you're involved in sport, fashion, media, retail, entertainment or tech, or indeed any industry, London is the place to be in 2012."

Gordon Richardson, Design Director, TOPMAN said “No longer shoe horned into one condensed hectic day, the newly established London Menswear Collections, over 3 glorious days now has the space to breathe, flourish and generate the buzz that will put its talented rising men's fashion stars firmly on the international fashion map.”

Jeremy Langmead, Editor in Chief, MR PORTER said “MR PORTER is looking forward to working with the BFC on this exciting new project that aims to give Britain's talented menswear designers and tailors the showcase they deserve. The menswear industry is experiencing huge growth right now and this makes both supporting home-grown talent, and feeding the worldwide appetite for innovative and expertly-made stylish men's clothes, essential. We look forward to creating a number of engaging ways that MR PORTER can help spread the word across all its content platforms during the London Collections."

Richard James, Savile Row Tailor said “We are very excited to be involved with the new plans for British menswear, and to be working with Dylan. This is a first for our company to present in this way.”

James Long, Fashion Forward Recipient said “I am really excited for the menswear plans and am looking forward to being part of a great year for British menswear. Thank you to all involved and all the work that has been put in to make this happen.”

The British Fashion Council would like to thank MR PORTER for partnering and supporting the London Collections: Men and the BFC would also like to give thanks to the team from TOPMAN for all of their continued and ongoing support for the NEWGEN MEN initiative and British Menswear.